Think fermenting is limited to foods such as sauerkraut and kombucha? Think again! Fermented skincare is one of the most exciting recent discoveries within the beauty industry. A trend that first stemmed from Asia – in particular, Korea; fermented skincare has been dominating the Asian beauty industry for quite some time now. Often used in everything from potent serums to sheet masks, fermented ingredients are now no longer just reserved for kimchi and kefir – it’s skin deep too.
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WHAT IS FERMENTATION EXACTLY?
When it comes to fermentation, many of us will automatically think of plants with ‘interesting’ scents being left to ‘sit’ in salted water. Fermentation is a custom that has been practiced for thousands of years by different countries and ethnicities. In a nutshell, the fermentation is a process where ingredients are biologically enhanced by bacteria, such as yeast, to increase their nutritional value and help with the preservation of the ingredients itself. This helps to create smaller molecules and byproducts such as amino acids, nutrients, minerals and lactic acid. In food, fermentation creates a more nutrient dense product when compared to its unfermented state due to the creation of these byproducts.
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In the past, the fermentation process has always been applied to food groups such as vegetables and fruits, but it is only recently that this process has extended itself to the beauty industry, in particular – skincare.
HOW DOES FERMENTATION WORK IN SKINCARE?
When fermentation is applied to skincare, the bacteria (or yeast) works to break down the molecular structure of the active ingredients into smaller particles. Quite simply, this allows the nutrients, minerals and skin loving actives to penetrate further and deeper into the skin, giving a more optimal effect of the skincare product itself. The breakdown of the molecular structure is also believed to create additional amino acids and antioxidants which are beneficial to the skin’s health.
WHAT ARE THE POTENTIAL BENEFITS OF FERMENTATION?
Fermentation in the beauty industry is still considered to be a relatively new innovation, despite its long history. Whilst the jury is still out, when it comes to solid proof about its benefits to the skin and the complexion, there are some studies that show promising effects to the skin.
In 2012, a study conducted by the Department of Food and Nutrition at Korea University shows that ginseng can assist the skin with skin concerns such as wrinkles and pigmentation. In this study, researchers found that red ginseng when fermented had stronger effects on these two skin concerns when compared to their non-fermented counterpart. Scientists also found that the fermented ginseng caused less irritation to the skin. In two different studies conducted in 2000 and 2007, it was shown that fermenting certain yeast types helped to stimulate collagen production. Whilst these studies were not done on human skin, the results of showing a higher production level of Human Collagen II were quite promising.
Finally, in a study conducted in 2003, scientists found that fermented soy milk extracts have the potential to enhance the production of hyaluronic acid in the skin. In this study, results were compared to that of non-fermented soy milk, and scientists could conclude from their research that fermentation can play a role in the preventing the signs of aging.
Whilst scientists are still looking for hard evidence of what fermentation can do for the skin; these early studies of fermented skincare suggest that there are some real potential benefits. As mentioned earlier, the process of fermentation is said to ‘super charge’ a skincare product as the process helps the skin to absorb the product better due to the breakdown of smaller molecular structures. Active ingredients can be harder to absorb as the molecular size is too large to penetrate deep in the skin (where you would want your actives to work!). As fermentation helps to break down these ingredients into a smaller size, the skin is therefore able to absorb more of these ingredients. Not only is the skin able to absorb more, but due to the smaller size of the molecules, it is even suggested that these actives can penetrate deeper into the skin, allowing the product to overall work better and at an optimum.
Fermentation helps to stimulate production of other substances within the skin such as boosting collagen production and hyaluronic acid
As the fermentation process is like a chemical reaction in itself; more substances are often created. These substances are skin loving ingredients – think natural acids, antioxidants and amino acids which help to nourish and protect the skin. Fermentation also helps to stimulate production of other substances within the skin such as boosting collagen production and hyaluronic acid. This boost helps to keep the skin looking firm, plump and radiant, making it great to prevent anti-aging.
Another benefit of the fermentation process is the fact that it helps to neutralize what are generally quite potent and are reactive substances in the skin. Raw ingredients can sometimes contain high levels of heavy metals or be contaminated with other substances which can cause further irritation to those who already have skin sensitivity. The fermentation process will act to breakdown and neutralise these substances which can make the overall product more suitable for those with sensitive skin.
Fermentation can also act like an antimicrobial, working to destroy ‘bad’ bacteria that may cause skin sensitivity
Fermentation can also act like an antimicrobial, working to destroy ‘bad’ bacteria that may cause skin sensitivity. Some cosmetic formulations will contain less preservatives as the fermented ingredients work to protect the integrity of the product.
Overall, many studies have shown promising results for the skin when it comes to fermenting natural ingredients such as soy, rice and ginseng. Whilst the scientific community is still making up their mind, those in the beauty industry do not really need to be convinced as many rave about the efficacy on lines that are purely based on fermentation. There is no doubt that the beauty community is embracing this new skincare discovery. With cult brands such as SKII, Su:m37, and Sulawhasoo paving the way, and new unique brands like Oneoseven and Bonair gaining a lot of traction from beauty bloggers and industry experts, there is no doubt fermented skincare is more than just a trend and is here to stay.
A self-proclaimed “Skincare Addict,” Fiona, is the creator behind the beautiful orchid themed beauty musings on @orchidsandpeonies and the writer of www.orchidsandpeonies.com where she shares her beauty findings, views on skincare, and thoroughly researched based skincare reviews.
